Debenhams is determined to break the cycle of perpetual discounting that's impacted sales at other department stores when it launches in Australia next week.
Speaking to Fairfax Media ahead of its opening in Melbourne, project general manager Christine Proctor said while the UK-based retailer would have seasonal sales, it was managing stock levels to minimise the need for aggressive, off season discounts.
"The goal is to get something into market that people are interested in and sell it through. Naturally, we have some planned markdowns and offers ... but we're certainly not interested in unplanned markdowns," Ms Proctor said. "We're not trying to break a cycle; we don't have a cycle. We want to build our own pathways."
Another one of Debenhams' strategies for entering Australia is to create a "fear of missing" out by only carrying limited numbers of some styles, especially at the top end of its fashion range. For example, there are just 32 of a white beaded dress by Matthew Williamson that sells for $399 - the highest price tag in the womenswear department.
"[Debenhams'] fashion offering is quite on trend and about bringing newness on to the floor with a level of frequency," Proctor says. "We're expecting to turn over stock several times through a trading period."
When Debenhams opens in the St Collins Lane complex on Tuesday, customers will be able to touch and buy product that until now was only available via Debenhams' global online store, of which Australia is the number-two market worldwide.
At the centre of its fashion range are several exclusive collaborations with British designers. Some names, such as Jasper Conran and the aforementioned Williamson, will be familiar to Australian shoppers, particularly those aged over 45, while others will take time to percolate.
And where there's a lack of recognition, there's some star power, with Savannah Miller, sister of actress Sienna, one of the designers available in Australia for the first time.
"It gives us a story with some freshness to bring to the market these British designers," Proctor said.
For the brand loyalist, there are the global giants such as MAC cosmetics, which has a concept store at street level, and a sizeable concession by Australian brand Veronika Maine.
While there are plenty of on-trend styles - gingham, for example, pops up in several brands - the gems take a little digging to find. And while the lingerie and business shirt ranges are vast, some items, like a simple white T-shirt, can be harder to find.
But flexibility is built in to the floor plan, so change will be constant, if subtle, Proctor said.
"We already have plans to change the floor plan ... this is the benefit of being on a single level," Proctor said.
Retail observers will no doubt seek to pigeonhole Debenhams as either a Myer-lite, or a beefed-up Target, a link to its history of designer collaborations with the likes of Stella McCartney and Jean Paul Gaultier.
But Proctor and Pepkor hope customers will see it as a totally new offering, aimed broadly at the "contemporary" customer with an emphasis on time-poor over 35s.
"Debenhams sits somewhere between fast fashion and enduring. We've got a small foot print, a mix of brands and each one plays a different role. We have a tight edit - that's entirely intentional. We are not trying to catch the 'early adopter', we're catching someone who knows what works for them and gives them something on point for the season as well as those staples to fill out their wardrobe," she said.
